Awards and Testimonials

Review from www.wine-pages.com

It was all change for the institution that is the Peat Inn as of June 2006, when David Wilson, chef/proprietor for well over 25 years, retired. New chef/proprietor is Geoffrey Smeddle formerly of the excellent Etain restaurant in Glasgow. The first thing regulars will notice is how the always comfortable Peat In has been tastefully updated, with the lounge and bathrooms totally refurbished in a muted colour sceme of fawns and chocolate browns, whilst the dining rooms have been brightened with new carpets, lighting and a lick of paint. The old place has a new lease of life. But it is in the kitchen where most interest lies, and I am delighted to announce that my meal here was outstandingly good. Smeddle hasn't done too much to scare the regulars who always loved Wilson's masterful way with fish and game, but there's an edge of precision and modernity to the food now that builds beautifully on the concept of local produce, sourced according to its season. After a lovely little cup of white onion soup as an amuse bouche, my starter of a Spring pea velouté with seared scallops was both delicious and extremely delicate. The scallops sat on a little mound of crushed peas given crunch, smokiness and depth with some fried pancetta, with the soup poured on top. For my main course, roast loin and daube of pork came with two crumbly little discs of black pudding, and a comfort-food bed of puy lentils and greens braised in Madeira. The loin of Pork was sliced into moist, moreish slivers, and the whole composition of the dish was beautifully balanced. Pudding was a little masterpiece too I must say, a pavé of Amedei chocolate with marinated cherries and almond ice cream. The glossy, unctuous pavée was as bittersweet as you like, and the cherries, full of flavour, were luxurious when taken with a mouthful of the ice cream. Coffee and fine, clever home-made chocolates (fresh mint flavoured was my favourite) rounded off a brilliant meal. The wine list, always one of the best in Britain, may not be what it once was, but still has plenty to delight, with mature bottles of great crus at reasonable prices. The 1983 Carruades de Lafite is looking like a bit of a bargain at £115 given the current demand for this wine, whilst £300 buys the 1999 vintage of Haut-Brion. There are plenty of inexpensive choices too, and a fine selection of half-bottles. David Wilson's legacy is in very safe hands. A set lunch at £16 is a real bargain, and both a la carte and set menus are offered at lunch and dinner. (2008).

Around £70 for Lunch for two, £150 for dinner. Closed Sunday & Monday. Suites £175 per night.